We Need To Talk About The Last 100 km

📰 News Update

Theft on the Camino Frances

I walked sections of the Camino Francés this summer and noticed a rise in chatter about opportunistic thefts occurring in albergues and hostels. While the Camino Francés is still very safe, and this affects only a tiny percentage of pilgrims, it always helps to be vigilant 👀

Some quick tips to keep valuables safe in communal accommodation:

• Get a money belt or bum bag and keep your valuables in it

• Take your bum bag containing your valuables into the bathroom with you—don’t leave it lying around on your bed

• If you have concerns at night, put your bum bag or money belt at the bottom of your sleeping bag or under your pillow

👍 Recommended Gear I Used This Year

Taking a few ‘luxury’ items with you on the Camino can significantly enhance your experience. Yes, you want to try and keep your pack light, but a couple of items you know will bring you comfort are worthy additions in my book.

I struggle with the majority of albergue pillows; for me, they are a one-way ticket to cricked neck town come sunrise. My ‘luxury’ item to help deal with this is the Therm-a-Rest Compressible Pillow.

It weighs very little, comes in a variety of sizes and costs $52.50 USD (£39.95). For me, this item is a life neck saver when it comes time for lights out.

🏡 Camino Accommodation Recommendation

Viña Femita – Camino Frances

This delightful hostel is situated in the town of Villafranca del Bierzo – Stage 25 on Gronze.

The first thing you notice when entering the dorm rooms is that there isn’t a bunk bed in sight, and all the beds come with bedding. This might not seem like much, but after staying in municipal albergues, this hostel feels like the height of luxury.

The hostel has a bar and restaurant that offers a tasty evening pilgrim menu. It also has a covered terrace area, perfect for relaxing and catching up with your fellow pilgrims over a drink.

A bed in the dorm is €14; alternatively, they have private double rooms starting from €59. You can book online or turn up on the day.

I hadn’t originally planned to stay here, but with other accommodation fully booked, I decided to give this hostel a try—and I’m so glad I did.

WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT THE LAST 100 KM

Sarria to Santiago, a section of the Camino Frances that can evoke extreme emotions among seasoned pilgrims:

“It’s crazy busy!”

“It’s like Disneyland”

“Get your head down and get through it”

All the above statements have either been said to me directly by pilgrims or left as comments on my Camino YouTube videos. But do any of these statements hold water? Should the last 100 km of the Frances be avoided – it’s actually 115 km from Sarria to Santiago, but what’s a few km between friends.

Let’s dive a little deeper.

For long-distance pilgrims starting in St. Jean Pied de Port, Irun, or even Oviedo, reaching this last section of the Francés can signify a major change to their Camino experience.

Even if you know it’s coming and feel ready for the big jump in pilgrim numbers, it can still come as a shock.

Earlier this year, I walked the Primitivo, which joins the Camino Francés at Melide. I knew what to expect, but it still took me a couple of days to get used to the change and feel like I was still on the same Camino I started weeks ago in Oviedo.

What took me by surprise was the almost carnival-like atmosphere among many young pilgrims I walked and talked with. It felt like they were on one long party from Sarria to Santiago. I’m pleased that people were walking the Camino and enjoying themselves, but it massively changed the vibe of the walk for me and the members of my Camino family.

Should the long-distance pilgrims simply put their heads down and march past the carnival crew to Santiago?

Let’s stop and take a minute to think about this.

Yep, it’s busy—there’s no denying that! But who are the people walking it?

Anyone who has walked a full Camino route knows the transformative power a two-, three-, or month-long Camino can have on a person. But maybe the people walking from Sarria to Santiago only have a week—who are we to say they shouldn’t get to experience the Camino? Maybe a week is all these pilgrims can afford.

What about the inexperienced pilgrims who choose to walk this section because of its robust infrastructure?

Walking the last 100 km is a massive undertaking for some.

I know pilgrims who have walked this last 100 km and gained so much from it; they speak of the sense of achievement and joy at walking from Sarria to Santiago. Speaking with these pilgrims totally changed my view of this last section of the Francés. Yes, they might not be experiencing the awe of crossing the Pyrenees, but they’re walking the Camino, and that should be celebrated.

We don’t know their story, and just because they’re walking with a day pack does not mean their journey was or will be an easy one.

I understand that walking past 50 school kids with their music blaring is probably not what you had in mind when you decided to walk the Camino. But what if you accept this new Camino reality and find ways to deal with it?

Here are some tips ✨ that might make handling the Camino congestion and vibe change easier:

⁃ Stay 'off stage,' away from the major stopping points. You can find some absolute gems to stay in this way.💎

⁃ Walk early in the morning to beat the crowds. Generally, the last 100 km walkers are not early risers, so you’ll have the way almost to yourself for a few hours.😴

⁃ Take it slow and start late. On this last stretch, pilgrims tend to leave each major stopping point in waves. If you walk between the waves and continue past lunch, you’ll be surprised how few are still out there walking.🥪

⁃ Still not happy and want to pull the ejector seat? Do some big last days! Test those Camino legs of yours and see how far you can walk. By doing this, you could gain an extra day or two in Santiago or maybe even claw back enough time to go on to Finisterre.🌊

⁃ Or simply embrace the busier section and go with the flow. Stay in the towns they all stay in, queue up for coffee and stamps, and nod your head to the music as you walk past those school groups.😎 🎶

I’d wager that a good percentage of these first-time pilgrims will be back to tackle another route, which keeps the Camino alive and thriving.